Slow Travel- Make a home away from home

 

Finding a home away from home can make all the difference in your slow travel experience, especially when you are of a well-seasoned age.

Our slow travel experience began 8 years ago with us establishing a five-month home in Dharamshala India, which is located in the foothills of the Himalaya mountains.

We opt for long-term rental because it provides us a base to explore the country as well as others close by. For instance, being stationed in India, Southeast Asia is quickly accessible as well as Mediterranean countries. And you’d be surprised how inexpensive airfares can be, once you're out of the USA.

Also, a homebase allows you a place to dump your luggage and take only what you need when you venture out to somewhere else.

For instance, this year, we plan to spend five weeks in Vietnam, and then return to homebase India. We can take only what we need for that warmer climate. A couple of years ago we stayed for a month in Cascais Portugal, but took side trips to the north and then to Morocco. It was just great having a homebase to leave our things and take only the essentials on the side trips.

Finding the perfect long-term accommodations requires you to really think about the creature comforts you may need to be comfortable.

Our room and kitchen in India. We look for furnished accommodations when planning a long stay

We recommend finding a place that will allow you to establish a home environment and is convenient. For instance, an old historical building may have an aesthetic appeal, but are you gonna want to go up and down the stairs if there’s no lift? Another example: staying in an apartment in the center of a big city may have some appeal. But if you’re like me, and have trouble sleeping, well that location may not be the best choice.

 Your place should come fully furnished. You don’t want to take up your precious luggage space hauling along towels and bedding. You may not need a TV, but you’ll definitely need pillows, a place to sit and a place to sleep. So check it out, I pay close attention to the reviews when I’m looking for a place on Arbnb or Booking.com. I've found they are sometimes more helpful that the owner's promotional descriptions and photos.

Our needs include a heating or air conditioning (depending on the country). A refrigerator, washing machine, and good cooking facilities as we like to cook at home at times.

You may take your reliable Internet and electricity for granted in your home country, but when looking for a long-term stay, you’ll need to make sure that those utitlities are working well. While we have great internet now, in our India stay, we sure didn’t back when we first came here.

 And what about the water? Will you need to use bottled water for drinking? Is there a water filter? Is it clean? Is it readily available for showers?

Something else to think about, especially at our age, is access to medical facilities. When choosing where to park our bodes for awhile, we always check to see if doctors and hospitals are close by…. Just in case. You will want to check your medical insurance coverage before traveling. There’s lots of information on the web about this.

 Transportation. I’m try to find places within walking distance to main attractions or close to transportation options. We like to walk as much as possible as you’re able to really take in your surroundings, and taxi fees can add up and become your greatest traveling expense (outside air travel) if you’re not careful.

These are just a few tips for slow travelers who are at a seasoned age. We’d love to hear your tips. Drop them in the comment section.

Taking the bus in Toyko. It's always an experience in another country when you don't know the language. But eventually you figure things out..

Life goes on regardless of what I WANT.

 
No electricity! 

During my first year in India, when the lights would start flickering, I began to pray silently (or not so silently) "Please don't let it be for a long time." If it was during the cold season here in Dharamshal, I would panic because I knew I'd be uncomfortable. With my jacket on, I was known to crawl into bed and cover up with our heavy Indian comforter.

We made too many rookie mistakes in the beginning - number one being we purchased electric appliances! So, of course there were times when I was in the middle of cooking a meal and the "light" went out, or taking a shower and suddenly, no hot water.

Outages in many countries are frequent, and for those of us who take the utility forgranted, the thought of being without it makes us feel helpless. You can't cook, you can't use the Internet and you can forget about staying warm in the winter.

Yesterday, there was a power cut here all day -  the first since we arrived this year. For natives, business continues- sometimes with a generator, but everyone adapts, they work around it. For instance, most use propane powered stoves. Over the years, we have learned to adapt. We now have a gas burner, make sure our backup batteries, cell phones and computers are fully charged at all times, and I have learned to dress in layers when needed.

I was so proud of myself. I didn't panic. I didn't go running to my neighbors asking if they know how long the lights will be out. I didn't pester my husband to call our landlord to find out what is going on. While it was an inconvenience, I knew that eventually the electricity would come back on.

I've never been the most patient person in the world. I've always wanted a solution- NOW! What I'm learning from immersing myself in another culture is that life just goes on regardless of what I WANT.

Welcoming Arms of Lovely Dharamshala

 

We're back! 

With our abrupt departure from India in early March 2020, we had no idea that it would be a full two years before we could return, and the havoc covid would take on all of our lifestyles.

While the country is not officially open to tourists, we have Overseas Citizen status and when we were fully vaccinated with an extra booster shot we decided it was safe for us to return. However, India required a lot of paperwork from us to be posted online basically to prove we were covid free, including copies of our vaccination records before we were OKd to go.

When booking the flight, we decided to fly direct to Delhi from Chicago, then spend the night in the airport hotel and take a morning flight to Dharamshala. In the past, our preference has been to stop over in London or Amsterdam long enough to leave the airport, find a hotel and try to get some sleep. That strategy seems to work for us, as we sure aren't as young as we use to be. This time, however, we felt that any layover in another country could be a hassel because of changing covid requirements. AND then we faced another hurdle. Because of the situation between Russia and Ukraine, the flight pattern was changed to avoid Russian Airspace as well has Iran's. This added about an hour an a half to the already 14 hour flight.

But we made it,. We were greeted in Dharamshala by our trusted taxi driver, Trilok, and crisp mountain air, and while on the half-hour car journey, we couldn't resist stopping in Kangra at a sabji (vegetable market). The sights and smells quickly brought me home to India.

Once we reached our house, we were created by some dear friends who came to greet us with a wonderful chocolate cake.

And of course, there was Shubnum, whom we consider our daughter. She takes care of us when we are here, and watches and cleans our house when we are not. We are so happy that we will be able to attend her wedding set for April 27.

Namaste

Garbage out, garbage where?

A dog sits atop a pile of trash near Sidhbari, India

Garbage!
Nowhere is the problem of garbage more evident than in India. It's everywhere. The problem is always right in front of your eyes.
While at my home in Minnesota, all I have to do is dump the trash into one garbage can and the recycling into another, and each week it's picked up and well, goes somewhere. It's no longer my problem!
It has only been through my experience in India that I have become aware how my purchasing habits contribute to this worldwide trash crisis. There is no weekly trash pickup. If I have trash, I have to figure out how to get rid of it - and to do it responsibly, which is not an easy task. What to do with the paper (toilet paper included, you can't flush it). Do I burn it? What about the packaging that I do generate? What about the veggie peelings? Yeah, I know I could start a compost pile, but that will attract critters, I fear?
Whether here or there, for me, it starts at the store. I'm becoming increasingly aware of unnecessary packaging including bottles and boxes. This packaging, here in India, too much of the time ends up along the roadside.
And just cause I can't see where all this refuse goes at my Minnesota home, doesn't mean there isn't a problem. It's just, well, out of sight, out of mind.

DISCLAIMER: My ramblings are in no way a representation of this magnificent country and its people. India is a widely diverse country. Cities are vibrant and very modern, but we choose to live in a smaller, more remote area where many of the old customs and traditions are very much practiced. Dharamshala is home to the Dali Lama and the Tibetan government in exile, thus a large Buddhist population. This area attracts artists, musicians, yoga and meditation practitioners from all the world. It is also home to many important Hindu temples.

Does everyone in India have 20/20 vision?

It turns out that three of my stitching lady friends needs "cheater" glasses. 

Few people in India wear glasses. I suspect that it’s not because they don’t need them, it’s because the cost of having your eyes checked and then purchasing lenses is pretty steep for many people.

I don’t see a lot of people squinting here, so I wonder if they just don’t know how poor their eyesight is and how much more it would be improved if only they had glasses.

I read somewhere that, until the invention of the printing press, people didn’t know they couldn’t see. But when trying to read the new documents made available by the invention – well, they couldn’t make out the letters.

Well, that’s sort of my experience here.

Last year. I watched some of of my stitching lady friends struggle with some tasks, such as sewing a straight line. I wondered if maybe the problem was their eyesight. So, with the money I raised in the U.S. for their tools, I purchased four pairs of “cheater” glasses – something we take for granted in the states, but here they are at a premium. Out of the seven Stitching Ladies, three saw their vision improve to the point that threading a needle, even the old-fashioned way, was a simple task.

Oh, by the way, I also brought along self-threading needles. No more licking the end of a thread and trying to carefully poke it through the eye of a needle. Yup. You just lay the thread horizontally over the top of the needle and gently pull down – voila – you’ve thread the needle. Just like the seam ripper, they were amazed at what’s available out there.

Chan spent some time with the women talking about the importance
 of keeping good inventory records. They may not use Excel, but their method
 serves them very well, he said.

Reconnecting the seams of friendship

The Stitching Ladies of Nayi Asha are so happy to learn about
 and now own seam rippers.

I’m back in India until the end of March and reconnecting with my beloved stitching sisters of Nayi Asha. They were happy to see me, and I was happy to see them.

Thanks to those who attended fundraisers that my U.S. stitching friends held, I was able to bring these women much needed supplies. I am introducing the tools slowly, so that I can teach them how to use them properly. As with me, you get so used to doing things a certain way and when someone shows you a new way, it takes time to make the change even though you know it’s for the best.

First up was the seam ripper. These women were so excited about his handy tool. As one of my quilting buddies so aptly once said, “The seam ripper is my friend.” I sure learned that when trying to do my first and only paper-pieced project. The stitching ladies say this tool is so much better than using a razor blade.

Anyway, I sewed some swatches of fabric together, and had them practice (correctly) how to rip a seam. I then showed them a Youtube video that, again, emphasized the proper way to use a seam ripper.

Sixteen doctors from England are biking through parts of India, including
the Himalays. They stopped at Nishtha to learn more about the NGO, and purchase
bags from the stitching ladies.

Since I’ve been here, there have been two groups of Europeans visiting Nishtha, the NGO which sponsors the ladies. These visits provide an opportunity for the women to sell their bags. I was so happy to see them display their bags in a pleasing way (something we worked on last year). I have been also teaching them some English phrases and they are quick learners – sure better than me with Hindi!

Thank you again, to all of you who contributed to these efforts. I’ll keep you posted.

Lee Ann

What's for dinner? Dal, rice and SURPRISE!

Indian version of eggplant parmesan

When I seat down to a meal here in India, most of the time I have
no idea what I’m eating. Rice? Yes. Paratha (a sort of Indian flatbread). Yes.
Beyond that, well the dishes put before me appear to creatively highlight whatever vegetables are in season – during the winter it’s radishes, broccoli, cauliflower, potatoes and some produce that remains a mystery to me. Dal (lentil dishes) are also frequently on our dinner plate. (By the way, my homestay host does all the cooking).

How does the food taste? Certainly not like what you have most likely eaten at an Indian restaurant in Minnesota.

Vegetables for sale in Dharamshala

It’s home cooking here; it is not spicy hot, but oh so flavorful. We eat meat maybe twice a week, and because it is part of a sabzi, the portions are small compared to what I serve in the USA.

We look forward to our frequent trips to the vegetable market as the produce is much more flavorful here, and I seem to be satisfied with smaller portions.
Chan’s salsa, which many of you have tasted and loved, is even better here with absolutely no spice.

We both have lost weight – more than 10 pounds each – and my digestive system, from top to bottom, is much healthier.

Our neighbor, prepares the soil for 

planting winter vegetables

Gardens are prevalent here - our neighbor who is a banker, is constantly working in his before work and on weekends, and as he told me ... "The ground doesn't sleep here." Crops are rotated and planted according to the season... the greatest challenge seems to be keeping a wandering cow from forging the goodies.

It’s now over two months since our arrival in Sidhbari, India, and with New Year’s just around the corner and our USA arrival date in late March, I’m focused on how to maintain some of the healthy changes I’m making here; however, it’s not easy to change over a half a century of culinary habits, but I realize for my own well-being I have to put forth the effort.

What I don’t eat or drink here in India

 Dairy- cheese, milk – taste is hard for me to get used to
Almond milk – limited availability, too expensive
Nuts (walnuts, almonds) too expensive

      Beef- not available

      Ground coffee (Nescafe available, but ground is harder to find)

e     Lettuce or any fresh leaf salad (I’m still to leery of uncooked greens – don’t know what parasites may be laying in wait)

      Beer- (I think for me it was more about opportunity than taste)

Poha is a traditional Indian breakfast

      Good artisan bread (just not readily available – access to oven baking is limited)

      Doughnuts and sweet rolls (Nothing compares to Donut Star in Eagan)

      Candy

         

What’s new that I eat or drink

   Lemon, ginger, honey tea.

   Chai

   Whatever sabzi that is put before me

     Lots of pulse-based dishes (beans and lentils)

COMFORT FOOD – my pretend taste of home

·         Peanut butter sandwich

·         Banana

·         Oatmeal ·         Chan’s salsa

·         French fries

Coming together one stitch at a time.

As many of you know, Chan and I are spending six months in India. The place we reside is Sidhbari, which is located in the foothills of the Himalayas, near the city of Dharamshala, close to the home of the Tibetan Government in Exile and the Dali Lama.

I couldn’t go to India or anywhere for that matter for this length of time without my sewing machine … there’s no way I could survive without this lifeline to home. So, I packed it up and spent $100 to get it here. 

I love to work with batiks, but I've found that the quality of batiks here is lacking. 

Shopping for batiks in Dehli. You sit, while shop owners shows you the fabric.

The fabric is too thin, and is difficult to work with and the colors are too muddy for my tastes.. I did make a set of place mats, but it was not easy. I am quickly learning how I have taken for granted the tools and fabrics that we have to work with in the USA.

Sewing- The thread of life

Sewing is so much part of the traditions and day-to-day living here. For instance, while ready made clothes are available (especially in Western styles) many people purchase and bring fabric to the tailor and within a couple days -at the most - you have a new suit or dress. The area where we are staying - because it gets cold -  is known for its  wool and it is like nothing I have touched (I don't think I'm the only one who gets joy from feeling up fabrics). Yak wool, angora, pashmina,

It is amazing the work that people turn out here with such rudimentary equipment. I am ashamed at how little I pay for their products here and at home.

I will be helping six women hone their sewing skills as they develop a niche market for the bags they create and sell to westerners who visit the area. The project is run by a dedicated woman who has created Nishtha Trust. Dr. Barbara, an Austrian, established the nonprofit decades ago and raises funds to support the various ventures that have been developed, of which the Women’s Sewing Cooperative is one.

As I impart the skills I have learned over the years about sewing, patchwork and marketing, these women will be teaching me about how to persevere in the face of so many personal and economic challenges.

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