Ecuador-Memories

Adios for now- Hasta la próxima

I haven't made time to finish posting about our trip to Ecuador, but knowing my memory, I'd better get this completed before it all escapes me. Here's what I will take away from my trip: • Ecuador has changed so much since my first visit in 1996. It is great to see an improvement in the standard of living for many people. • While I seriously consider this as a place to retire, I can't help but wonder what the effect on this small country will be with so many Gringos wanting to call it home. No doubt, when North Americans enter the scene, things can change. • I love the Andes. The highways have much improved since 1996. There are still hair-raising hair-pin turns; the fog still presents a challenge.

And then there is the variety of Ecuadorian fastfood found along the way. (The hanging pig may look gross, but fried up with some potatoes - it's a real treat.)

From the variety of potatoes, soups, vegetables, fruits, seafood and meat dishes, you can eat your way through the country. Ahh, the people. I love travelling through the different provinces and seeing the different groups of indigenous people, in their identifying dress.

Ecuador, you are in my heart. Till next time.

The miracle of Banos

Banos is a special destination not only travelers from other countries who are catered to with the have-your-pick-of-hostals, but it is a special place for its residents and a playground for Ecuadorians from other parts of the country. On any day, you can expect to see either a parade along the streets celebrating a religious feast day or mourners carrying a coffin to its resting place. Around noon, the narrow walkways are filled with children in their school uniforms being escorted by their parents to, I assume, their homes. If you a planning a shopping spree, better check out the shop hours. Many open late, close early for siesta and reopen later in the day until about 8 p.m..

On Friday evenings the town is alive with activity - families come for an outing. This father said that people come from all over Ecuador to party in Banos - he said they are a conservative people and don't want to be seen having a good time in their own villages.

Banos is famous for its hot springs, mineral pools, all fed by volcanic waters. Additionally, the nearby Tungurahua Volcano, which still makes itself known with eruptions now and then, is a draw for hikers, mountain bikers, nature lovers and thrill seekers.

Banos has its miracle - The La Basilica de Nuestra Senora del Rosario de Agua Santa. It was the only building left standing after a major eruption, and is still considered a safe harbor. When it's time to eat, you will find many choices that will appeal to an American unadventurous palette. I would certainly recommend Cafe Hood and La Caldera Cafe where my chicken was prepared to perfection. But if you want to step out of your gastro comfort zone, visit the downtown mercardo, and stop by one of the stands for papas and puyo; if you dare, try a fruit smoothie as well.

Banos in Banos

The draw of Banos for locals and foreigners alike is its temperate climate and the mineral hot springs created by the nearby volcano. The town has three different areas where you can go for a soak, but the one shown is located a couple blocks from where we are staying along Avenida De Las Amazonas. It is public, but doesn't attract as many people because the water isn't HOT, HOT! There are several pools, with varying temperatures. I found one pool to be just perfect, and the one shown is more of a gentle hot tube experience. I learned that if you are sitting in a pool that has a white sort of scum on it, that's OK ...because these are the minerals before they have a chance to disperse.

Image soaking in a pool of warm water, surrounded by beautiful vegetation and looking up the side of a mountain. Life can't get any better than that ... oh, and all at a cost of $2. In case you have the opportunity to come here, this is the address.

Gringos find home in Cuenca's Gringoland

From what I understand nearly 5,000 Gringos have made Cuenca their home. The beautiful climate and affordable prices make it a perfect spot to retire (however, you have to get use to missing your kids and grandkids). The Gringos seem to settle in one part of town that the Cuencans call "Gringoland." There are now shops sprouting up to cater to the Gringos, including the Coffee Tree, which has become a gathering place for those from way north of the equator. Before leaving for Ecuador, I emailed Nancy Watson, who writes a blog that I follow, asking her if we could meet. She graciously consented and is pictured in the middle. During our conversation, our English caught the attention of two more Gringos, and Chan and I listened as they told their stories of how the ended up in Cuenca. I would say the common thread among expats is the love of adventure.

Ahhh, Cuenca

Gringo's draw to Cuenca should come as no surprise. The climate in this mountain city is temperate and the services are excellent - you can even drink the water right from the tap. There are several universities and very good medical facilities, and there is construction everywhere. I visited the city for the first time in 1996. What a change since then. For example, now there are new cars - then, there were old clunkers. The oil money and the investment in infrastructure by the president is making this city a showcase. However, it is the culture - the respect for old traditions and values that are appealing to me.

The people are friendly and accepting. I love the small markets,city center has a European flair ... small streets, small shops. It is a small business mecca.Some things are very expensive here, like liquor; other items and services are not. For instance, a 90 minute massage is $35; gasoline runs about $1.25 a gal.

Many old haciendas have been converted to hotels or bed and breakfasts. Here we are having drinks at the Mansion Alcazar, which was once the home of the Ecuadorian president and before that a very well-respected family. Today, it is one of the top places to stay in Ecuador.

Exchange student experience - an important ingredient to great paella

Yesterday was all about family. Paca and Fusil (Ceci, Roberto and Virgi's parents) hosted the family for lunch. My relationship with this family spans over 20 years. It is hard to believe that it all came about from making the decision to host an exchange student ... first Ceci, then Roberto, then Virgi coming to Minnesota to stay with Don and Carol, and later Roberto returning with his cousin Javier to earn money to bring home. To see the littlest members of this family, now, brought tears to my eyes. There is no question that God's hand was involved in building this relationship that now spans to a new generation. I said to Paca: "You have wonderful children." She said to me: "WE have wonderful children," recognizing the role I played in their lives. My wish is that my grandchildren will be able to become part of this extended family. We were hosted to a magnificent lunch of seafood Paella.

I am posting Youtube video of Paca making the paella. This will help me, or anyone else make this delicious dish. Today we get down to business. Should we seriously consider an Ecuador move? Would we (I) be able to adjust? Would the language issue be a barrier that I wouldn't be able to crossover? These are the questions we seek answers to as we meet with expats and others who may help us with our quest for answers.

Living along the Rio Tomebamba

I will save our travel experience from Quito to Cuenca for a later post. I write now about my experience in Ceci and Paul's neighborhood. Most homes here are two levels, with a front-gated area where cars are parked. C and P's home is the center house. It is near a park that is next to the Rio Tomebamba (river.

Many people walk the paths along the river. Others use the river to wash their cloths. This morning we met an expat about our age walking and reading his "Spanish cheat cards." He uses his morning walk to learn Spanish. He and his wife live in an apartment for $500 a month plus association fees. He said they live quite comfortably on $2000 a month, plus they are able to travel. WOW!

Paca and Fusil will host us for lunch.

Black Friday shopping in Otavalo

In Otavalo, we did our own version of Black Friday shopping. Otavalo is north of Quito about 50 miles; however, it takes a good two hours to get there, because you are continually going up and down and around mountains. All those alpaca sweaters and great wool hats and cloths you see in our malls, largely come from Otavalo. You had better be ready to bargain, the vendors follow you around and just don't give up. We hired a driver for the day, which was helpful. He also took us to Cotacahi. The small community's specialty is leather goods. If you have seen me wearing panchos, it is what my husband loves to purchase for me. Of course, he found a beautiful one trimmed in leather. I told him that he bought a similar one for me the last time we were in Ecuador. No matter ... he loves to buy me panchos. Now, if only we could find him a leather coat that fits well. We also stopped at a nature preserve that is at the rim of a volcano - Lake Cotacahi It is so peaceful there.

We also met three expat couples and spent time talking with them about their Ecuadorian retirement choice. We finished our day in downtown Quito. The outdoor bars and sidewalks were filled with young adults, dancing, beer. Our restaurant choice was not the best. Tomorrow, we are on our own .... To Cuenca. about 300 miles through the mountains. Paul and Chan are driving. I have been appointed official backseat driver and navigator.

Thanksgiving Feast - Nothing like a good bowl of soup

Today is Thanksgiving Day, and God has blessed me in so many ways... one is the ability to travel and try things that I would never dare, if it wasn't for my hubby. Several years ago, we spent Thanksgiving Day at the Taj Mahal with our good friends and fellow adventurers, Paul and Sandy Thompson. Now, in 2012, we are all celebrating Thanksgiving in Quito,Ecuador. We were looking for a place to have sopa, especially with potatoes. Honestly, South America has the best potatoes. Down the block from our hotel, Carolina Montecarlo, we found a small nondescript cafe, with seven tables... all filled with local workmen. It had to be good, we decided. With a meal for $1.75, how could we go wrong?

The meal was delicious. We didn't drink the mango juice, however. Too early in the trip to get a bad case of the you-know-what! After a nap, we will seek out the next food adventure... it's Thanksgiving after all.

Buenos Dias and Happy Thanksgiving

It's 4 a.m. and there's a lot of activity in the Bogota, Columbia airport. While people with overnight layovers like us are waking up from their uncomfortable but welcome rest on the benches, early travelers are heading to the gates for their flights. The first leg of our trip to Cuenca included a stop at the Newark N.Y. airport - where Chan was nearly brought down to his undies by security. After a short wait in the very crowded airport, we had a 5 hour trip to Bogota. I'll admit, I thought the airport would be the pits, and unsafe. I was totally wrong. Top drawer.

We had a couple beers and pizza, and then tried to call it a night. Our flight is in a couple hours .... gotta go find some Columbian coffee.