Every day is a good day - San Jose del Cabo Day 4

"How would you describe a good day?" I asked Bernie and Ali. They both smiled at each other and Bernie, the more talkative of the two, threw up his arms in the air and said with his nearly toothless smile: "Every day is a good day .... bad day ...no, no. Every day is a day and it is a good day."

Our good day was very relaxed. Chan spent a lot of the time reading, while I played with my new Flip and lay on the beach. I also wanted to find a fabric store ... no need to explain the reason for that. That proved to be quite a job, since few speak English, and fabric stores here are not very plentiful. But if you can find a childhood home in Pakistan that you left when you were 4 years old, well, a fabric store in San Jose del Cabo should be easy. A few questions here and there, a few wrong turns and we found it!

For supper we decided to visit Ali's International Cafe, for fish tacos, but mostly for the stories. We talked with these two amigos for about two hours, and Ali would not let us pay for our meals. "You are my guests," he said.

Both talked about how free they feel to live life the way they want to. Bernie has a small business in British Columbia, where he wholesales fruit and veggies three months out of the year. The rest of the time, he lives on the beach north of San Jose del Cabo, and comes to visit his lifelong friend when he needs to replenish his water and food supplies.

Ali has been a chef and some pretty impressive places, but found Mexico to be where he belongs.

If you are looking for a mean fish taco, and some interesting stories, don't pass by Ali's place ... oh, yeah, don't be surprised if he's not there ..... he only works when he wants to.

The other side - Day 3 San Jose del Cabo

We'd heard from our cabana friends that Ali's International Cafe just down our road had the best fish tacos. So, that's where we began our morning. In the little hut near the marina, we met Ali, who was originally from Timbuktu, and yes, his taco is not to be missed. Our quick stop ended up in at least an hour conversation with him and his friend from Vancouver, orginally from Germany.

If bumming isn't your style, then go west of San Jose del Cabo to the better known and definitely more monied - Cabo San Lucas. Big boats, big condos, cruise ships, luxurious hotels. I'm not going to show you any photos because you'll find images easily on the Internet.

We traveled north on Highway 1 go Todos Santos. It's a small town, with enough ambiance to satisfy any tourist.

The crashing waves on the Pacific side must draw surfers; however we didn't see any. Spectacular water action.

We followed the road north to loop down. We were surprised at the mountain passes, and hair-pin turns. Although we were in much need of a seista, the drive definitely kept us awake.

Tomorrow, with gas at $4 a gallon, we think we'll stay put. (We have been surprised at how expensive it is here ... our cheap ticket brought us to a place where dollars seem to flow out of your pocket.)

On the road to somewhere- Day 2 San Jose del Cabo

After fixing breakfast outside, we decided to take a road trip somewhere north but along the coast, not the interior. We wanted to stay off the main road. The only road available, well, was a gravel road to somewhere. We took it.

We saw a lot of beautiful scenery, spectacular sandy and EMPTY BEACHES.

There were some surprises along the way .... we learned that even the most deserted road leads to somewhere for somebody.

Ed Delfin Blanco - our thatched roof get-away

Another adventure off the paved highway. If you want to experience life in a small Mexican fishing village, I'd advise that you get here quick. Pueblo La Playa Mexico, just near San Jose del Cabo is quickly becoming Disneytized! The rugged, desert terrain is being transformed into golf courses and boulevards lined with palm trees and transplanted cactus for tourists who prefer a more sanitized experience. But for now, this place is still a slice of authentic Mexico, but the financial bulldozers are making their mark.
Chan calls this place "art" ... imperfect, life as it should be.
Now you wonder why I bring this up. It's because the push pull of development has spurred our hostess, Osa, to action. She is rebelling against the changes, and says that if she won't do it, no one will because the people of the village are poor and for the most part uneducated.
Osa's El Delfin Blanco is a quiet retreat close enough to the water to hear the crashing waves of the Cortez Bay, and the village dogs barking their power at night. Can you believe a golden sunset viewed from a nearly deserted sand beach? Well, it's here.
Osa must be in her mid-60s and originally from Sweden. She loves to talk, and will guide you through your place here that is in transition ... help you rent a car and even have it delivered, have beer, cheese and crackers ready as well.
Today we spent in San Jose del Cabo.
Ate Huevos Rancheros, fish tacos at El Herradero;
met a lovely couple our age who are adventurous...
Larry and Sharilyn Anderson of Bonney Lake Washington
They love to travel as much as we, but are minimalists .... she told me to save my old underwear for travelling so you can throw them away, and only have certain outfits that you bring (and wear your swimsuit under your clothes as you travel ... no need for a bra .... and you're ready to jump in the water.) Pack light... for her it is a backback, for him it is a small suitcase with wheels. Don't rent cars, use local transportation. Lots of good ideas for traveling on the cheap.
Tonight we cook our meal outside on a make-shift stove, and then go to the beach.